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using a wedge for support bandsaw a 7" length of Yew log
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Mark the centres at both ends of the log
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using a soft-faced mallet drive the four-pronged drive firmly into the log on the centre mark
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mount securely between centres, ensuring they tailstock quill is set correctly, and that the workpiece isn't obstructed by the toolrest, and set the lathe speed to the lowest speed
(NB: four-prong drive mounted in scroll chuck)
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using a freshly sharpened roughing gouge, rough the workpiece down to a cylinder, working off the corners. take light cuts and be careful of flying bark
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continue roughing down the workpiece working "downhill" in light cuts
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as the workpiece comes into true increase the lathe speed incrementally
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using a freshly sharpened parting tool, cut a dovetail spigot at the headstock end of the workpiece. undercut the outer face slightly to provide a secure and firm seat in the scroll chuck later on. cut as close to the four-pronged drive as you can safely do so
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once the workpiece is trued up, reduce the lathe speed and mount in the scroll chuck and check for true. if required, re-true up using the roughing gouge. once true increase the lathe speed
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drill a 1/2" hole approx 6" deep, making sure to withdraw the bit reularly to clear the shavings
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form the inner shape of the neck using a freshly sharpened 3/8" spindle gouge
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bring up the tailstock for support if required. use a paper pad to prevent marking the workpiece
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using the 3/8" spindle gouge, begin to shape the outer neck, following the inner curves created earlier
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continue to form the shape of the bud vase, always cutting downhill, aiming for a clean-cut finish with minimal tool marks
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when the shape is completed abrade from 150 - 400 grit with a good quality cloth-backed abrasive. keep the abrasive moving at all times to reduce laying in annular scratches
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after conventional abrasion use green, red and gray WEBRAX pads
NB: white WEBRAX is non-abrasive and is used as an applicator for oils and waxes
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apply pad lightly with lathe rotating, and with constant movement
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after each grade of WEBRAX clean the piece with a tack cloth to remove all dust from the surface to be treated
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apply spirit stain with lathe running using safety cloth (I ran out!). colour choice is personal and experimention often leads to wonderful colour combinations
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try to blend each colour into the next
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after colouring is completed and the colour has dried, de-nib with gray WEBRAX or 0000 grade wire wool, applying the lighest pressure
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finishes to be applied: acrylic sanding sealer, melamine gloss lacquer, burnishing cream, friction polish, & burnishing cream again
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apply sealer with lathe rotating. apply light coats. two light coats, de-nibbing between, will give a better finish that one heavy coat
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one coat of lacquer applied. allow to fully dry, de-nib, and repeat as required. three coats of lacquer would be ideal
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apply burnishing cream with safety cloth, working the cream along to piece from one end to another. the finish will become dull before a shine is raised
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apply friction polish with safety cloth and buff to a high gloss. repeat the burnishing stage and burnish to a high gloss finish
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part off with a freshly sharpened parting tool, leaving a 6-10mm stub to be cut with a fine kerf saw if necessary. remove stub with a sharp chisel, abrade base, seal and buff
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